A billet flywheel is made to withstand all RPM’s that the engine is capable of and will not break. When it does it’ll shoot pieces off in all directions and has been known to hurt people. When you start doing this, it’s not a question of if, it’s a question of when the flywheel will break. If you remove your governor, which I highly recommend, you’ll be spinning the flywheel past it’s recommended rate. It was made to spin safely at the factory setting of 3,600 RPMs. The stock flywheel is made of steel and is not overly strong. Stage 2 (Moderate)īillet Flywheel – The flywheel connects onto the main shaft on the opposite side of the engine to the clutch, torque converter, or transmission. GoPowerSports is almost always the best priced for this option though. Prices do change pretty frequently here since it’s the most competitive stage.
#Predator 212 iguard full
If you attempt to price each part individually you won’t be able to beat the price of a full stage 1 kit.
Recommendation – For stage 1 your best bet is going to be an all in one kit. It’s where the jet connects to inside the carb. The purpose of an emulsion tube is to maintain the air/fuel ratio at all RPM’s. You can use the stock one with the same results so don’t choose based on this. This isn’t absolutely necessary at this point. This is something you definitely want to get right.Įmulsion Tube – Some kits may include a different emulsion tube. Running rich is a waste of gas, and running lean can damage your engine and possibly blow it up. Running your engine with too much fuel is called rich and running with not enough fuel is lean. The idea is to have the right size jet to allow enough fuel in to keep the same air to fuel ratio as the factory setup. By installing a new jet with a slightly bigger hole, you’re allowing more fuel to be pushed into the engine with the added air. You don’t want your exhaust to be bottlenecked, or it will limit the gains of every other part you could install.Ĭarb Jet – Lastly, the carb needs to keep up with all the extra air being pulled into the engine. Here you want a single 90 degree turn and a slightly bigger pipe size to let out the most air possible. The stock exhaust is a mess of direction changes and baffling to reduce sound. As the engine is now getting more air, you need to allow that extra air out efficiently. Some nice upgrades here are filter covers that will keep water off the filter if you drive in rain or muddy areas.Įxhaust – As with the intake, very basic but not to be skipped. The aftermarket intake kits come with an adaptor for your carb that will allow a straight or angled cone filter to be attached. The stock intake box has two filters and a non-direct design. Intake – The most basic of upgrades, but possibly the most beneficial through the stages. Because this isn’t universal, I’ve done my best to keep the stages to the most commonly observed parts. The various parts tend to fall into as much of an industry standard as they can, in what’s called stages. The Predator 212 is the engine I swapped onto my go kart and I’ve never looked back.īecause the aftermarket is so competitive, there are tons of options out there. Couple the low initial cost with the super competitive and very reasonably priced aftermarket parts and you’ve got a recipe for the #1 engine for go karts. Perhaps the most common replacement go kart engine, the Predator 212 is an unbelievably good value.
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